A Chardonnay with restraint. Citrus and white peach on the nose, a fine thread of oatmeal underneath, and an oyster-shell salinity on the finish that keeps pulling you back to the glass. Barrel-fermented, but you would never accuse it of being oaky.

Variety: Chardonnay Winemaking: Whole-bunch pressed, wild-fermented in older French oak, ten months on the lees with weekly bâtonnage. Serve: Lightly chilled, in a proper glass, with something from the sea.